Yohji Yamamoto has always done things his own way. So it feels fitting, even poetic, that Y-3’s newest evolution is a sub-label where Yohji collaborates with, well… Yohji. Y-3 Kuro is here, and I’m absolutely here for it.

I worked on the Y-3 brand at adidas from 2015 to 2017. Not at the very beginning, but during a time when Y-3 had already proven it wasn’t just another designer-sportswear experiment. It was something more permanent. A movement built on contradiction, discipline, and freedom. We weren’t chasing trends or sneaker culture validation. We were building a world for the non-conformists. For those who wanted their wardrobe to say less, but mean more.

That spirit still resonates, and Kuro captures it. “Kuro,” meaning black in Japanese, is Yohji’s color of choice and his most powerful design tool. In his hands, black becomes language, form, and identity. This new sub-line strips Y-3 to its core: sharp, functional silhouettes reduced to their essence. Clean track jackets, pared-back tanks, beanies. It is restraint with purpose.

If you know Y-3’s history, you know this isn’t a pivot. It’s a continuation. A reassertion of what has always set the brand apart.

Over the years, there have been key moments that defined Y-3’s relevance and longevity:

1. 2002–2003: The Birth of a Category
Y-3 launched in 2002 and debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2003. It was a groundbreaking moment: Yohji Yamamoto, then already a legend in avant-garde fashion, partnered with adidas to create an entirely new category - high-fashion sportswear. Minimal branding, draped silhouettes, and performance-forward thinking became the brand’s DNA. This wasn’t fashion chasing function; it was function reimagined through fashion.

2. 2004: Platform Sandals Before They Were Cool
Years ahead of the current wave of clogs, slides, and sport-fashion hybrids, Y-3 released a platform sandal with a split-toe mesh bootie and bold typographic branding. It was fashion-forward, ergonomic, and arguably set the stage for today’s utility-meets-luxury footwear movement. Back then, it confused people - now, it looks prophetic.

3. 2013: The Qasa High Drops — and the Game Changes
The Qasa High sneaker arrived and didn’t just sell - it shifted the culture. Its elastic wrap design, tubular sole (a callback to adidas' '90s archive), and neoprene upper made it an instant cult item. It inspired dozens of imitators and opened the floodgates for designers to treat sneakers as sculptural objects.

4. 2014–2016: The BOOST Trilogy — PureBOOST, Run Boost, and Ultraboost 22
Before the world fell in love with BOOST through Yeezy or Ultraboost, Y-3 introduced it to fashion crowds with the PureBOOST. Later, the Run Boost amped up the silhouette with oversized branding and Yamamoto’s signature asymmetry. Kanye himself wore them — and resale prices soared.

5. 2016: Y-3 Designs Flight Suits for Virgin Galactic
Yes, really. When Richard Branson’s space tourism company needed flight suits for its crew, it tapped Yohji and Y-3. Designed with heat-resistant Nomex and Yamamoto’s eye for silhouette, these weren’t gimmicks - they were industrial couture made for the stratosphere. (as seen in my portfolio projects)

6. 2018: The Y-3 4D Runner Introduces FutureCraft to the Avant-Garde
With only 200 pairs released, this sneaker merged adidas’ FutureCraft lattice sole with Yohji’s refined minimalism. It was tech-forward, runway-certified, and another example of Y-3 being first to blend high design with real performance science.

7. 2022: “20 Years: Re-Coded” Campaign with Zidane
To mark its 20th anniversary, Y-3 turned to longtime collaborator and icon Zinedine Zidane. The campaign featured Zidane in full Y-3 - trench, vest, tracksuit - as a living embodiment of elegance in motion. The campaign didn’t just look back; it reminded people why Y-3 still matters.

Which brings us back to Kuro. It’s not a rebrand. It’s a refinement. A creative re-centering. The silhouettes are subtle but loaded with intent. It feels like a return to what made Y-3 so powerful in the first place: the ability to say a lot by doing very little.

As Yohji once said,
“With one eye on the past, I walk backwards into the future.”

That is exactly what Y-3 Kuro is doing. Not chasing nostalgia, not chasing hype. Just moving forward in its own quiet, confident rhythm.

As someone who had the privilege of working on this brand from the inside, I see this moment not just as evolution, but as affirmation.

And yes - I’m here for it.