Each June, Copenhagen becomes a cultural checkpoint for the fashion industry. The Global Fashion Summit (GFS), long considered the most influential stage for sustainability in fashion, has traditionally offered a mix of optimism, urgency, and corporate showmanship. But this year, something was different - and revealing.
Big brands noticeably stepped back. Onstage panels were traded for closed-door roundtables. Sustainability leaders who once seized the mic were now curating their exposure. The mood was quieter - and it wasn’t just about tone. It reflected a deeper shift in how fashion is responding to rising pressure, changing politics, and increasingly skeptical audiences.
This comes at a time when the stakes couldn’t be higher:
Fashion is responsible for 10% of annual global carbon emissions - more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined.
It produces 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually, set to reach 134 million tonnes by 2030.
Only 13% of fashion companies are on track to meet their science-based targets.
Scope 3 emissions - the supply chain — account for over 70% of fashion’s footprint, yet fewer than 20% of brands disclose them.
In parallel, consumer trust is eroding: 79% of shoppers care about sustainability, but just 23% trust the claims brands make.
And then there’s the political dimension. In the U.S., 22 states introduced anti-ESG legislation in 2024, undermining corporate momentum toward responsible business practices. In Europe, efforts to tighten sustainability regulation have softened - just as greenwashing fines have risen by 40% year-over-year.
So when brands go quiet, it’s not just risk avoidance. It’s a signal - that sustainability, once a strategic front-of-house performance, is now seen as a liability to manage behind closed doors.
But culturally, that silence matters. Because fashion doesn’t just respond to culture - it shapes it. And right now, the industry is modeling a form of retreat just when visible leadership is most needed.
Still, not all is lost. Independent designers, innovators, and next-gen sustainability leaders are stepping into the vacuum - with more transparency, realism, and cultural clarity than ever. They’re not just working within the system; they’re questioning its assumptions.
For those of us invested in cultural relevance and brand strategy, this year’s summit felt less like a celebration - and more like a stress test. The choice ahead isn’t just about compliance. It’s about credibility.
In an era of noise, brands that stay visible with purpose - not perfection - will be the ones shaping the next chapter.